21:57, 06 January 2026

Digital Technologies Help Preserve Russia’s Traditional Crafts

Modern tools are being used in the Orenburg Region to support and develop the centuries-old tradition of down knitting.

The Orenburg down shawl is known around the world. Its history dates back to the 18th century, when Ural Cossack women discovered the unusual properties of down from local goats. The thread spun from it was exceptionally thin yet very warm, making the shawls themselves remarkably lightweight.

In 1851, an openwork shawl was presented on the global stage for the first time at the Great Exhibition in London, where it won awards. From that point on, the shawl gained international recognition and is now sold in nearly 100 countries.

Passed Down by Word of Mouth

For a long time, production remained entirely manual, and the secrets of down knitting were passed down orally, from grandmother to granddaughter. When a down shawl factory was established in Orenburg, the craft began to be documented. But today, it is digital technology that truly helps preserve the heritage of Orenburg’s Cossack women.

“Previously, this knowledge was passed on, at best, in written form,” says Maria Pekhtereva, an artist-designer at the factory. “The patterns of the shawls are unique, reflecting the character and even the way of life of that era. A Cossack woman would sit by the window in winter and try to recreate in the pattern what she saw: falling snow, a mouse’s tracks, or blackcurrant berries darkening on a branch. All of this would later become part of the shawl.”

Today, every detail of an authentic gossamer shawl is strictly regulated. Only compliance with officially recognized standards allows a product to be called an Orenburg down shawl.

“For example, the center of the composition must feature a diamond shape, which symbolizes the sun,” Pekhtereva explains. “Then comes the ‘grid,’ a combination of specific patterns, followed by a carved border. Factory production strictly adheres to these rules, and digital technologies help us do that.”

A Virtual Heritage

At the factory, almost the entire rich heritage of the Ural Cossacks has been transferred into a virtual format. As a result, it now houses one of the largest digital databases of traditional patterns and craft elements.

“Using this material, we can create almost any type of fabric,” Pekhtereva says. “It could be a new line of Orenburg down shawls or truly unique pieces. For the factory’s anniversary, we created an exhibition of portraits of prominent figures made from down shawls. They were knitted exclusively from traditional elements, yet visually resembled soft, down-based artworks.”

An artist formulates a digital task for the knitting machine based on a photograph or a creative concept. The image is digitized down to individual points and then recreated using decorative elements while strictly following the compositional order. According to Pekhtereva, this is a meticulous creative and technological process. Once the digital layout is approved, it is uploaded to the machine, which begins knitting, while the artist monitors the process to ensure everything is precise and accurate.

“Today, digital technologies help preserve, transmit, and expand the unique cultural and traditional heritage of our country,” Pekhtereva concludes.

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